Editor's note: During the Chinese New Year holiday in 2024, iChongqing reporter James Alexander returned to his hometown of Leicester, England, after a five-year absence. The constancy and changes in his hometown and the differences between life in Chongqing and life in the UK all gave him deep feelings.
In all the years I have spent at the Spring Festival in China, there have been so many unforgettable experiences, and not a single occasion has ever been exactly the same. In the past, it was more a traditional week spent with close family on New Year’s Eve and the first day, with round after round of merry get-togethers at the homes of relatives in my wife’s hometown of Hechuan.
Later, when we enjoyed the greater mobility that came with vehicle ownership, we spent the week driving to more exotic locations, such as the border region of Xishuangbanna in Yunnan Province, or crossing the Qiongzhou Strait by ferry to relax in the tropical climes of Hainan.
In recent years, I have typically stayed behind in Chongqing and worked a few extra days for live streams and video productions. However, this latest Spring Festival was special for me because it marked the first time I visited family in England for over five years. The main source of anticipation was the changes, or lack of, that I could expect to see.
The chance to snap up a bargain return flight direct between Chongqing and London over the Spring Festival made the choice to return home irresistible (Photo/James Alexander)
Also, considering the travel restrictions in recent years and the long time spent outside the UK, would these hinder my journey somehow? Finally, there were some innate cravings for classic British dishes that I once loved, which suddenly came to mind now that the prospect of going home was nigh. As things went, I satisfied these questions in no time on this smooth and highly enjoyable trip halfway across the world.
On the evening before I set off, the overcast skies that typically blanket Chongqing in the winter gave way to glorious warm sunshine, which ironically lasted the entire Spring Festival and beyond until the day I was set to return.
The descent into Heathrow overflies central London, and it's exciting to spot famous landmarks such as the London Eye and Westminster (Photo/James Alexander)
After stepping off my first direct flight between Chongqing and the UK, which helped make the journey infinitely more bearable. I was welcomed back with wind and rain on a chilly evening outside Heathrow at what should have felt like 3 am, considering the sizable 8-hour time difference. I was certainly in the right place, and being on home soil once again felt exciting.
In answer to my initial points of curiosity, every stage of the journey went smoothly. The flights were on time, and there was no sign that the travel restrictions of previous years had ever existed. The mood onboard this surprisingly busy flight was tinted with festive spirit.
Rediscovering the pace of hometown life
A friendly taxi driver who regularly does airport runs for the family greeted me outside, and it was soon clear to see on the drive from Heathrow to my folks' home in Leicester that everything was still more or less how it was in 2018.
The drive from West London takes about two and half hours in good traffic, and as I chatted away with the driver, he commented that the smart motorways under construction last time around had since been scrapped, reportedly due to financial pressures and the concerns of motorists over safety issues.
Oadby is a coveted and peaceful town a few kilometers outside Leicester City Centre, but where shops close most days come 5-6 pm (Photo/James Alexander)
Also, having just flown over from Chongqing, where electric vehicles are a common sight on the roads with their fluorescent green plates, we discussed the pros and cons associated with electric vehicles, and I pointed out there were much fewer visible on the M1 heading northwards in comparison.
Later, as we drove through Leicester on the final leg, spotting any charge points except for private homes was challenging, and a handful stood in open car parks outside commercial malls like Fosse Park. This is much unlike my home in China, where countless charging stations are tucked away in nearby communities, including one quite large place right next door to my apartment block.
After the obligatory hugs inside the porchway, I soon felt at home again that evening, sitting together in the living room with tea and biscuits. The folks didn’t seem to have aged a bit over the past five years and were in good health and spirits. We had met almost every week on video calls since my last trip five years ago, so we settled down and chatted away, kind of like I had never left.
The only exception was the cuddly 19-week-old cockapoo they named Cookie, which had recently become a cute addition to the household and which burst with excitement whenever we entered the room, jumping up energetically on hind paws, licking our toes, and imploring us to play tug of war with toy animals locked in her jaws.
Spotting wildlife outside from the warm patio over a cup of tea is a simple pleasure I often miss in England (Photo/James Alexander)
Over the following days, I soon learned firsthand hand this winter had been particularly wet, and it was clear from the roadsides that many flood plains were completely waterlogged. The River Soar constantly gushed past only a few inches below the pedestrianized riverbanks.
Whenever we took Cookie for walks down Brocks Hill Park, the soggy fields were virtually impassible without a pair of Wellington boots to squelch along. Despite this, the weather turned out to be quite passable for most of the stay and only turned wet and wild on my final day before returning to China.
Another point of curiosity I had before traveling back was the question of money. Now that online mobile platforms like WeChat have become ubiquitous over the past decade in China, I was interested to see how easy it would be to spend the 50-pound banknotes exchanged back in Chongqing.
As it happened, I saw relatively few people using their mobile phones to pay for things, with cash and cards still being the favorite. Although small outlets were more reluctant to accept these large denominations, I was soon back in the habit of carrying a leather wallet with coins jingling away in coat pockets.
The pristine countryside of Leicestershire is commonly dubbed the Heart of Rural England (Photo/James Alexander)
People sometimes ask me whether I experienced reverse culture shock in the UK after spending most of the last 20 years in China, but I would have to say there were no such feelings during this particular trip. In fact, I really appreciated many old creature comforts, particularly the home interiors equipped with warm and snug fittings like carpets, sofas, fireplaces, and wall-mounted radiators. The patio overlooking a cluster of back gardens teemed with life, such as the large crows and grey squirrels, and the simplest acts, like relaxing here over cups of English tea and biscuits, felt very welcome.
On the other hand, life in England does become overly quiet for me in residential areas. When evening sets in, the local shops mostly close for the day, and there is comparatively little to keep oneself amused besides the local pubs, supermarkets, and the occasional football game, and even bus services grow sparse after hours.
This wasn’t a big problem for me over this short stay, as there were plenty of family and personal outings arranged for most days, but this side of life in England does help me appreciate the fact Chongqing is truly a city that never sleeps, and you can find what you’re looking for virtually any time of day and night.
Another downside to England in winter is that apart from Christmas, friends and extended family are typically occupied with their everyday working lives, so it can be difficult to arrange much quality time together. Also, the inclement weather and dark nights more or less dictate you have to stay indoors.
The River Soar flowing through Leicester has seen high water levels this winter, and it was speculated the remains of King Richard III were cast into this waterway in 1485 after the Battle of Bosworth (Photo/James Alexander)
Nevertheless, the folks have been retired for many years now. My last couple of days happened to coincide with the half-term school holiday, so there was more opportunity to play with my nephew and niece over games of Texas Hold’em Poker and Uno, which they obviously enjoy when not fixated on the consoles that youngsters inevitably love.
On a personal note, I think the deepest source of regret for expatriates like myself living permanently halfway across the world is that no matter how well the decision to make a new life abroad feels vindicated in terms of achievement, career, lifestyle, and general happiness, this unavoidably comes with a touch of alienation when it comes to the younger generation.
This isn’t the case so much with my parents and younger brother, as we spent all those years together through the 80s and 90s until adulthood, but when it comes to my nephew and niece, I’ve never been in the position to assume a significant role in their lives, and it feels deeply unfortunate that I’ll always remain a distant relative for them, and miss out on watching them grow up day by day over the years.
Retracing historic vestige in Leicester
England has an extensive canal network across the country, with many idyllic spots that boaters love such as Foxton in Leicestershire (Photo/James Alexander)
My stay back home lasted a mere 11 days, and since the Chinese New Year went past virtually unnoticed outside London, and most family and friends were occupied with balancing work and childcare, I decided to film some vlogs for my new channel.
The places most popular among visitors are the town of Foxton, where the longest and highest lock staircase for canal boats can be found nationwide, the Great Central Railway that operates vintage trains between Loughborough and Leicester North, and the fascinating Richard iii history trail in Leicester City Centre, so coupled with the fact these are close to home, I set out for these locations with a day or two in between for editing.
The history behind Foxton Locks dates back to the year 1810 when Parliament authorized this new section on the Grand Union Canal between Foxton and Buckby, and once it was completed in 1814, linked the coalfields of Nottinghamshire and Derbyshire with London for boats and cargo.
Foxton Locks is a staircase system of canal locks opened in 1814 that fill and empty into side ponds and are still passed daily by long and narrow canal boats in either direction (Photograph/James Alexander)
Today, over two centuries later, boating enthusiasts still pass through this picturesque series of 10 locks at Foxton on a daily basis, which displays the ingenuity of the workers who built them by hand and the dedication of lock-keepers who keep the site running throughout the year. The staircase system of locks stands 75 feet high, and water is directed in and out of the individual compartments through gates leading into the nine side pools alongside.
Visitors from all over the country come to explore this heritage site, while locals visit regularly to enjoy the serene atmosphere and natural surroundings over drinks and classic English delicacies by the canal side. I have been fond of this place since I first visited as a child, and the rural charm has never faded over the years.
On the day I came here again for a morning walk, I had the fortune to meet a representative from the Canal and River Trust, who described the financial challenges they have faced since their grant was drastically reduced and the importance of donations in keeping stretches of the canal alive.
The scenery and English lodges looked all more idyllic under the blue skies this day. Now I’m a little older to appreciate the underlying heritage; I felt a stronger interest in exploring the on-site museum and horse stables, as well as conversing with the lock-keepers who see the canal boats up and down the locks one at a time over the 45-minute process.
Groups of volunteers have kept an 8-kilometre section of the Great Central Railway in Leicester operational for tourists who dream of riding an original steam train (Photo/James Alexander)
The Great Central Railway is a vestige of the industrial revolution. First opened in 1899, the original steam trains once served passengers between Sheffield and London Marylebone and operated throughout the world wars until the line was finally retired in 1969. In order to keep this heritage alive, groups of enthusiasts came together in the early 1970s and succeeded in buying an 8-mile section of track between Loughborough and Leicester North at Birstall.
Despite knowing about the railway for many years, this half-day out was the first time I had experienced the steam train in person, and it was definitely worth the trip. Even before the locomotive chugged into our chosen station of Quorn and Woodhouse, there was much to explore around the platform, including the immaculately preserved ticket office, waiting room, and naafi tearoom, which still perform their original functions for visitors, and at the same time, vividly recreate the early twentieth-century ambiance thanks to the old furnishings and decor, along with posters, notices and background music themed on the Second World War from station’s heyday.
On selected days, which netizens can find on their official website, the line is operated in both directions by volunteers using an old-fashioned diesel train and a vintage steam engine. While passenger numbers have gradually increased along with greater publicity, they are looking for wider public support and funding so they may one day purchase an additional 10 miles of track heading northwards.
The Naafi tea room at Quorn and Woodhouse maintains the same decor and atmosphere from the station's heyday (Photo/James Alexander)
Once on the train, each of the carriages has its own unique decor, with cushioned seating compartments in some open tables and chairs in others, while a more plush dining cart offers the traditional English afternoon tea experience reserved in advance. The four stops of Loughborough, Quorn and Woodhouse, Rothley, and Leicester North take roughly ten minutes between each station, and it was a true pleasure to watch the countryside roll gently past to the rhythmic chorus of flowing steam and rail jolts over tea and scones.
At the final station, volunteers decouple the engine and allow visitors to step inside the footplate, where they can marvel at the engineering know-how behind these coal-fired trains and how they are still able to run after more than a century. I also chatted with the friendly stationmaster volunteers dressed up in yesteryear rail-worker attire before the engine was re-coupled at the opposite end in preparation for the return journey.
The steam carriages of the Great Central Railway offer different seating experiences for guests (Photo/James Alexander)
Whether a tourist visiting for the first time or a regular vintage train enthusiast, this was an unforgettable experience on my trip home. I hope they can complete the ten-mile extension over the coming years.
Finally, the legend behind King Richard III has been synonymous with the City of Leicester for over 500 years, as this final Plantagenet king of England met his demise at the Battle of Bosworth at the hands of Henry Tudor's army in modern-day Leicestershire in 1485, and remains to this day the last English monarch to die in battle.
His exact fate was a source of mystery, with some records claiming his body was dumped into the River Soar, while historical documents say he was given a hasty and unceremonious burial inside the friary that once stood beside Leicester Cathedral.
A statue of King Richard III stands between the Visitor Centre, where his remains were discovered in 2012, and Leicester Cathedral, where he was eventually reburied in 2016 (Photo/James Alexander)
A spectacular development came in 2012 when archeologists from the University of Leicester discovered his remains under the friary, which had long since been redeveloped into a city car park. The key features that identified him were the cranial fractures sustained from a fatal halberd strike, the spinal deformation as portrayed in the Shakespeare play King Richard III, and DNA analysis from living descendants now resident in Canada and New Zealand.
Whenever I travel back to Leicester, I normally love to spend a morning or afternoon here and bring along friends and family to trace the footsteps behind this fascinating period of history. It only takes a short while to tour the exhibits, but it's always nice to sit in the cafe afterward and then conclude the visit next door in Leicester Cathedral, where the former king, who ruled for less than three years, was reburied in 2016.
Spring Festival reunions set to continue
Considering the main point of going home was to spend time with family after five years away, I was perfectly content that my travels didn’t extend beyond Leicestershire on this occasion, and the Spring Festival combined with a week of annual leave made the long distance a very feasible option.
Over the remaining time in Leicester, I took more walks inside the beautiful and rugged countryside of Brocks Hill Park, worked out in the plush gym and spa using guest passes from my parents' membership package, went on a fair few shopping trips to stock up on clothes from my favorite stores, and satisfied my taste for the amazing English breakfasts and Sunday carvery lunches in a homey public house near Fosse Park.
Leicester was founded by the Roman Empire around two thousand years ago, and nowadays blends modern buildings and traditional architecture represented by the Haymarket Memorial Clock Tower (Photo/James Alexander)
Before I knew it, and just as I had fully adjusted to the eight-hour time difference, it was time to head back to Chongqing. Although it was regretful to leave behind family and the familiar surroundings from childhood once again, this has become a ritual we’ve been accustomed to over the past twenty years, and this time, I’m sure it won’t be as long as five years until we meet again.
In fact, our next get-together has been penciled in for Thailand over the Chinese New Year in 2025, meaning we can ditch the British winter climes and enjoy the occasion in a tropical paradise. In the meantime, I am delighted to have returned to Chongqing without a hitch, and I am looking forward to another incredible year sharing the best of this city with the world and meeting and working with more great people. Until next time, England!