Chongqing—Perched atop a mall in Chongqing Liangjiang New Area, Tan Xu’s hotpot restaurant fills its elegant space with the spicy aroma of his daily hand-stirred soup base. As the fourth-generation heir of a family-owned hotpot business, Tan carries forward the century-long legacy batch by batch.

Tan Xu's hotpot restaurant is perched atop ReAn N+ mall in Liangjiang New Area. (Photo/the mall)

The tradition began humbly in 1918. Tan’s great-grandfather, a Yangtze River dockworker in Yongchuan District, boiled cheap offal with simple seasonings to fuel his grueling labor. He shared portions with fellow workers for food money.

The legacy deepened with the next generation when Tan’s chef grandfather refined the recipe and sold it along the riverbank. Its rich flavors won over laborers and residents alike, leading to a brick-and-mortar shop in the 1960s. This foundation enabled Tan Xu’s modern success. Nine years ago, he launched his first restaurant in downtown Chongqing, making it a popular chain restaurant.

"Hotpot is indispensable for Chongqing locals," Tan explains, highlighting its dual role. Beyond dispelling chill and dampness, it serves as a social glue. He adds that hotpot is an inclusive cuisine and a top choice for gathering, as everyone finds their favorite in the pot.

A batch of broth demands four hours of constant, heavy stirring in the kitchen. (Photo/Li Chen)

Tan took up the ladle after high school to make a living. He was reluctant, considering that stir-frying the soup base is arduous. A single batch demands four hours of constant, heavy stirring in the kitchen.

"Chilies, Sichuan peppercorns, fermented beans... Everything is handpicked," Tan states. "This hasn’t changed for decades. Alter it, and you lose our signature flavor." Humidity and temperature also affect the process; masters must constantly observe, sniff, and tweak in real-time.

Tan said a perfect soup base is visually appealing, aromatic, and delicious, and as it simmers, different layers of flavors emerge. That is the soul of the Chongqing hotpot, which machines cannot replicate.

His reluctance eventually turned into passion, fueled by customer devotion. Most customers in his restaurant are regulars. One man in his fifties unfailingly books two tables for his yearly birthday banquet. Staff sing "Happy Birthday" and serve longevity noodles.

Tan believes he wins customers with the unwavering principle of hand-stirring broth and innovates elsewhere to optimize customer experience.

He sources ingredients from as far as Hulun Buir, a city more than 3,000 kilometers away from Chongqing, via cold-chain logistics for peak freshness. Dining spaces are tailored for special occasions, offering emotional value for customers. This heritage brand also maintains a presence on youth-focused social media.

Beyond business, Tan’s efforts are about sustaining a legacy.

Tan’s 10-year-old son watches elders work in the kitchen, mirroring Tan’s own childhood. Tan says his son will likely inherit the family business, yet his view of inheritance is open and pragmatic.

He mentors ambitious young apprentices as future partners, teaching both the craft and management. This approach drives the current strategy. This year, he closed three large outlets to open smaller, youth-targeted shops with these apprentices, adapting to market shifts.

Tan travels globally for inspiration. The story of sushi master Jiro Ono moved him deeply: "A family persists with handmade craft for decades, dedicating a lifetime to perfecting one thing. That’s the artisan spirit I admire and embody here."

After stirring the soup base for more than twenty years, Tan said, "I’ll probably be doing this for life."