Chongqing - Walk into any trendy mall in Chongqing and you’ll find young shoppers clustered around racks not just of bags, but of quirky, colorful charms dangling from them—tiny plush toys, cartoon figurines, band merchandise, and museum mascots. Once a playful afterthought, the "bag charm" trend has become a powerful social and emotional symbol among China’s Generation Z, reflecting personal identity, emotional needs, and even cultural belonging.

At a shop in Chongqing’s Longfor Times Paradise Walk Shopping Mall, a vibrant wall of bag charms catches the eyes of shoppers. (Photo/Chen Chang)

A Badge of Memories and Emotions

For many, bag charms carry stories far beyond surface-level aesthetics. Eva Wu, a local English teacher, cherishes a handmade felt charm her student gifted her upon graduation. "It has her favorite cartoon character and my name on it," Eva says. "She put so much thought into the design and even wrapped it in plastic to protect it. Wearing it reminds me why I started teaching—to devote my heart to my students."

Eva Wu’s felt charm, a handmade gift from her student, serves as a daily reminder of her teaching journey and heartfelt dedication. (Photo/Chen Chang)

For others, the attachment runs to fandom. Ms. Liu, a devoted fan of pop star JJ Lin, never attends a concert without her "Little Fatty" bag charm—a popular bear from the singer's official merchandise. "It feels like JJ Lin and his music are always with me," she says. "At concerts, he puts so much effort into interacting with fans, and buying merchandise like the bear is part of the experience. When I spot someone else with the same charm, it’s an instant ice-breaker. You know you've found your tribe."

Ms. Liu’s bag charm, from JJ Lin’s concert merchandise, symbolizes her loyalty to the singer and a way to connect with fellow fans. (Photo/Chen Chang)

In some cases, bag charms take on humorous or regional flavors. Ms. Jin sports a "Suan Niao" (Garlic Bird) charm from the Hubei Provincial Museum, a plush toy inspired by Wuhan dialect. "If meetings get tense, I squeeze it and it chirps, 'Suan Niao, Suan Niao, you can’t beat me!'" she laughs. "It's funny and also shows my easygoing attitude."

Ms. Jin’s “Suan Niao” (Garlic Bird) charm, inspired by Wuhan dialect and museum culture, expresses her humorous and easygoing attitude toward life. (Photo/Chen Chang)

From Store Shelves to Social Circles

Bag charm fever is boosting sales across retail. At Chongqing’s Pop Mart in Longfor Times Paradise Walk, popular Molly bag charms are sold out. “Only display pieces are left,” a staff member said. “Join our group for updates, but restock dates are uncertain.” Even with prices over 100 yuan at Sanrio Gift Gate, demand remains strong and crowds linger at the bag charm section, even on weekdays.

At the Pop Mart store in Chongqing’s Longfor Times Paradise Walk, Molly series bag charms are sold out, with only display pieces remaining. (Photo/Chen Chang)

In 2024, China’s bag charm market hit 2.1 billion yuan (about 292 million U.S. dollars), with steady growth in pendants, keychains, and plush toys. Top items like Pop Mart’s Labubu frequently sell out, sparking online and offline buying frenzies. Limited editions, especially from brand collaborations, have pushed resale prices far above retail.

What makes these charms so appealing? Psychological consultant Yan Yu says bag charms express cultural or subcultural identity—for example, otome game players display their favorite characters, signaling shared interests. These charms serve as silent “name cards,” showing off passions for Disney, games, or music.

Bag charms also provide comfort. In a fast-paced world where many feel isolated, they offer easy, affordable companionship—no longer seen as “childish,” but as sources of emotional support for adults.

Two customers browse bag charms at the Sanrio Gift Gate in Chongqing Longfor Times Paradise Walk. (Photo/Chen Chang)

Online, this value is amplified. The “bag charm” hashtag on Xiaohongshu (RED) has 1.1 billion views, with users sharing collections and stories. Each like or comment creates a sense of connection, helping build online and offline communities.

A Growing Economic and Cultural Force

The bag charm boom has inspired businesses to innovate, launching collaborations that bridge trends, tourism, and local culture. Scenic spots now release exclusive charms, turning landmarks into wearable mementos.

Since last year, major luxury brands such as Coach, Loewe, and Miu Miu have been expanding their offerings in bag charms, with Hermès also introducing its signature horse charm. However, industry insiders note that while these official designs maintain brand identity, they often lack the playfulness and surprise that appeal to young consumers. In contrast, Labubu has quickly captured the spotlight with its built-in hook and playful design. Notably, Labubu partnered with Chinese designer Pronounce for a collaborative runway show at Milan Fashion Week in early 2023.

A variety of Labubu figures are on display at the Pop Mart store in Chongqing’s Longfor Times Paradise Walk, but none are available for sale. (Photo/Chen Chang)

This convergence of popular culture, emotional value, and social connection points to broader shifts. According to a 2024 McKinsey report, 64% of Chinese consumers now prioritize emotional consumption, with Gen Z leading the way. Bag charms are seen as more than products; they’re emotional investments and cultural statements.

Industry analysts believe that the future of the bag charm economy lies in this blend of affordability, emotional resonance, and cultural meaning. As the boundaries between high-end and everyday brands blur, these tiny charms are proving to be both economic engines and cultural touchstones for a generation seeking meaning in the everyday.