Editor's Note:  This article is produced in collaboration with the Chongqing Institute of Foreign Studies as part of a series of ongoing reports exploring the city's abundant resources in intangible cultural heritages.

A traditional royal jewelry technique, filigree inlay is also known as refined gold craftsmanship and has been around for over 2,000 years. It combines filigree and inlay craft, optimizing their strengths and mitigating their weaknesses in a dedicated and beautiful composition. As history progressed, it was introduced to the folk communities. 

“Filigree inlay” is acclaimed as one of the “Eight Greatest Works of Yanjing.” In 2008, it was listed as a national intangible cultural heritage item.

Using filigree as a foundation, the technique entails a meticulous process where gold and silver are drawn into strands, each measuring between 0.11mm to 0.15mm, finer than a strand of human hair. After countless rounds of precise attenuation, these strands are manipulated into intricate filigree patterns. To achieve a variety of desired shapes and styles, they need to be pinched, filled, saved, soldered, woven, and stacked. The last step is then adorned with pearls, onyx, jadeite, coral, precious stones, jade, and other high-quality materials such as fine wood and glaze, and finished with traditional techniques such as blue burning, gold wrapping, emerald dotting, and beadwork. Even the slightest detail error can compromise the entire piece’s integrity.

Such a small piece of jewelry requires a great deal of time and effort. Upon mastering the technique, a small pair of earrings can take up to 15 days.

Gu Guoqiang is deeply engrossed, painstakingly crafting a crown at his desk in the hushed ambiance of a silk mosaic studio. A quintessential post-90s young man, he first encountered silk mosaic art after graduating from university, a meeting that sparked an intense fascination within him. After a few days, he found Li Changyi, the sole master in Chongqing, steadfastly dedicated to silk mosaic creation and the lone inheritor of this intangible cultural technique. Without a moment’s hesitation, he resolved to be an apprentice of the master, aiming to delve deeper into the intricacies of the craft in a more specific and systematic manner.

As the adage says, precision comes with patience. The art of filigree inlay is a testament to this, demanding unparalleled focus on creation. During his learning journey, Gu became wholly absorbed in the allure of filigree inlay, exploring the unique subtlety of this traditional Chinese craft in both aesthetics and history. To the fullest extent, it allowed him to express the richness of traditional Chinese aesthetic imagery, demonstrating the intricate symphony of detail and heritage inherent in this venerable art form.

As the inheritor of the filigree inlay tradition, Gu combines traditional techniques with contemporary aesthetics, weaving Western aesthetic elements into his exquisite creations. He develops and innovates styles and techniques of filigree inlay, creating a revitalized Chinese style for accessories and crafts. He also integrates online and offline modes to introduce the history of filigree mosaics and its production process. For example, he curates physical exhibitions while leveraging online short video platforms for promotion. As a result, the techniques and accessories of filigree inlay can gain enhanced visibility and acclaim overseas, reviving this ancient Chinese art form and ushering in a new pinnacle in its evolution.

In fact, I often work all day long at the workbench, sometimes even until the late hours of the night. I am also fond of playing games and traveling and love freedom more than anything else. Yet, I am still happy, for I am investing in my passion and devotion,” says Gu.

Much like an elegant lady of ancient times, Filigree inlay advances gracefully, accompanied by the harmonic clinks of jade and jewelry, drawing nearer to those who ardently await its presence, one deliberate step at a time, stirring their souls with its delicate touch.

The tedious craft, over the span of its long history, has seen its profound essence diluted in everyday life, but there are always guardians protecting its inherent magnificence!

Let us preserve and reinvent the classical pieces with time and our unwavering commitment to craftsmanship, thereby perpetuating the advanced customization in classical jewelry!

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Chinese script: Hu Pingping
Tutored by: Xie Jiaoyang

Translation: Zhu Ziying
Tutored by: Cheng Guo  Tu Qingqing

Voice-over: Jin Xiaotong
Tutored by: Ren Yi